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Plans & Kits - Plans by type - Steel and Aluminum Boats - Duckworks Boat Builders Supply Mar 05, �� and making documents now about underwater fishing. so 20 Foot Plywood Fishing Boat Plans New i want make a aluminium boat for fishing m i want make because the most xpensive in Turkey. i buy many aluminium plate. but i dont know how to do it. havent a plan. i search PDF or videos. but i could'nt find detailed drawings, angles and part measurements. All designs for aluminum construction are included here. For further study, we have books available in the Books, DVD's and Audio section of our store at your left. Read our free article on aluminum boat . WORK BOATS - FISHING BOATS - PASSENGER BOATS - BOAT PLANS BOAT CUTTING FILES & BOAT STEEL OR ALUMINUM PLANS & CUTTING FILES - 21' / 6m - 78' / 24m. The photo shown here is of the Euro Coastworker (12m / 40 ft) and is typical of our purpose designed work / fishing boats.
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Paul and Linda Jauncey and family made a successful Atlantic crossing in his self built steel Dutch style powerboat Dreamworld and at time of writing is currently undertaking a Pacific crossing.

When powering at hull speed of 8. It is worth noting that by reducing speed to 7. By the end of the voyage Salvation 11 had called at ports, visited 51 countries including 34 states of the USA and motored just over , nautical miles in 7, hours at an average speed of 6.

Shakedown cruise got a perfect This vessel performed beyond my wildest expectations. No ballast used. Designers note: We recommend ballast in Free Aluminium Fishing Boat Plans You all our displacement trawlers. There is not bow spray rail pictured in the plan. This boat throws a lot of bow spray when it pitches into a heavy sea.

Fun to watch but very cold on your face when you are on the bridge Robert J. The vessel performs much better in a sea going situation with longer swells. Looking forward to a early reply in this matter Yours faithfully, John McSwan.

Hello Bruce, Hope everything is going well. I can se your home page is growing larger by the minute. My boat building is coming along fine. Everything is fitting nicely as it should.

My crew is excellent and they are enjoying building a boat like this regards to restoring old boats. We have drawn up the steel construction details hull, deck, sterngear and rudder details only for this 32' canal boat based on a tug design with a fantail aft end and narrow boat lines amidships running into a tug type bow.

She may be fitted out in a Similar to the 55 footer below, we have details for the construction of a 35' steel motor yacht hull. The plans include the steel work drawings for the hull and engine beads and the computer generated hull panel shapes. She has a beam of 11'6" 3. The Bullfinch is a typical standard steel narrow boat with a cruiser stern for home construction.

The drawings and details are for the hull, deck and superstructure steel work only. Engine bed and rudder details are also shown. A study plan showing a We have often been asked for a wood version of a steel narrowboat and here it is. Narrowboats were of course made from timber in the first part of the last century although then, they used heavy boards of Elm and Oak. This version uses several layers This is a steel multi-chine motor barge for use in the waters of the UK and Europe, crossing the Channel and exploring the rivers and canals of the European mainland.

She has a section of parallel middle-body which means that she can be stretched. These plans are for the steelwork only of a We can also send details for the rudder engine beds etc for the 45' version as guidance for Visit the Wavedancer website Principal dimensions: L. Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines.

As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.

These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate. Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed.

When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig.

This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating. Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent.

A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs. These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found. Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required � at least in the area of the cut-out � either through the use of doublers or thick inserts.

A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding. Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig. The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape. There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members.

A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less.

First, there is a natural tendency among builders in any material to over-build and second-guess the designer, even when a boat uses the heavier plating approach initially. The typical idea is that if so much is good, then a little more must be better.

The result is that such boats weigh more than the designer predicted. You guessed it � NOT the builder. Much depends on the boat and its expected service. For pleasure boats, I tend to favor lighter scantlings, but for more rigorous duty, heavier construction may be justified.

However, rather than simply increase plating thickness, you might get similar results by adding a few more internal stiffening members instead. An appealing possibility on metal boats is tanks integral with the hull, which is acceptable for diesel fuel but not gasoline. Because the hull shell plating provides one or more of the tank sides, and internal tank members can double as hull stiffening members, such tanks can save material and add capacity without taking up more room.

First, tanks might be of such a size or located in such a position that welding tight seams all around the perimeter is difficult if not impractical. Second, because full welds are required, there is a greater chance of heat buildup and ultimate hull plating distortion.

Finally, special consideration must be given at the intersections of tank ends, hull stiffening members, and internal tank baffles when required.

Attempting to fit and weld tank ends tightly around stiffeners that pass through the tank is tedious if not impossible. Instead, hull stiffeners should stop at tank ends, with similar members cut and fitted inside, or with internal baffles installed in line with such stiffeners as substitutes and to maintain continuity. Conversely separate tanks built outside the hull are physically easier to manipulate during assembly and welding, easier to test and assure integrity, easier to repair or replace, and not as likely to suffer damage in a collision.

Aluminum tank thickness is sometimes shown as a function of tank capacity such as the following:. To 50 Gals:. However, for practical purposes, most tanks should be at least. Thicker tanks also require less stiffening, and since plating material is usually suitable, no special thinner stock need be ordered as might be implied from the above list. Also provide striker plates or doublers on the bottom under sounding tubes if being used to prevent damage to the inside of the tank.

All tank tops should be canted, sloped, or cambered so condensation or moisture will drain off the tops. Tanks can be made out of the same material used for the hull plating , , etc. Special computer-aided design programs coupled with numerically-controlled cutting equipment have made it possible to literally pre-cut all the components of a metal boat to precise size and shape in kit form ready for final welding assembly.

However, for successful results, a skilled boat designer familiar with the material and fabrication techniques, along with the ability to operate the software to within exacting tolerances is a prerequisite. Otherwise, as they say, a miss can be as good as a mile. If one major component is not spot-on, you could waste a lot of costly metal quickly and perhaps assemble a boat that could be so inaccurate as to suffer severely performance-wise. But done right, the system has inherent appeal since such boats should be easier and faster to assemble.

Is this technology suitable for the do-it-yourselfer building just one boat? It depends. The ability to provide such a technologically-advanced product does not come cheap. For the production builder, the higher design and development costs will be amortized over a great number of boats. And the labor savings would no doubt make up the investment manifold over time. Second, facilities for pre-cutting metal boats are currently far and few between, and not all have equal capabilities and expertise when it comes to boats.

Third, if a do-it-yourselfer is not near such a facility assuming a design is available , shipping costs can be prohibitive on just a single unit.

Finally, although there are some designs available often because a builder gives up his design rights for one reason or another , design choices are minimal. A design where you build from scratch and cut out your own parts may take somewhat longer to build, but will be the low-cost alternative. And there are countless stock plans to choose from, many at a low cost.

One-off Versus Production Building Methods � Similar Results, But Different Approaches Required The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting.

Framed Boat Advantages for Do-It-Yourself Builders Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone. Some Considerations On Changing From Steel To Aluminum Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. A Practical Rule Of Thumb Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.




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